Visiting the Black and the White Desert in Egypt

 While most visitors traveling to Egypt have a long list of places to visit: The Great Pyramids of Giza, the Red Sea, the city of Luxor, or the ruins of Abu Simbel. I wanted to explore the more untouched beauty of the country and get a glimpse of the vast Sahara. Luckily, the White and Black Desert were perfect getaways from Cairo, that I could explore when booking a tour.  

Don’t get me wrong, I also visited the pyramids, the Egyptian Museum, and some other “must-see” spots in the city, but after spending 6 days walking around masses of tourists and telling street vendors that I don’t need another replica of the pyramids for my collection, I was really excited of a change of pace and get closer to nature.

The White Desert has not been made for tourism development at all. There are no tourist facilities, vendors trying to sell you something you do not need, or even bathrooms to use. There is not a single ticket control to the natural park, and we only have one rule. Everything we take to the desert; we must bring it back to Cairo.

You are really in the middle of nature. Visiting the White Desert is a unique experience that everyone visiting Egypt should at least live once.

Staying overnight in the White Desert

The highlight of doing a tour to the Black and White Desert of Egypt is by far the opportunity to spend the full night in the middle of it. After arriving late at night and finding a spot far away from other vehicles. We parked in a flat area surrounded by giant limestone boulders and dunes. Here, our drivers and tour guide set up a very simple camp with some chairs, a fire, and rugs to keep warm.

At the camp, facilities were basic, our walls were the two vehicles we arrived in and we slept on the floor next to each other under the stars.

It is a relatively unpleasant night. However, the beauty of opening your eyes and marveling a starry sky or simply wander around in the middle of the night and seeing familiar shapes under the moonlight is something I considered priceless.

Can you visit the Black and the White Desert on a tour?

Even though tours are not allowed to visit the White and Black Desert anymore, several operators, including large companies like Viator and Trip Advisor, still offer overnight visits to this surrealist place.

Usually, companies work with a local Bedouin that knows the road perfectly and has contacts at the military checkpoints located between Cairo and the White Desert.

My 2-day/1-night tour to the White Desert cost around 80-90 EUR, but after doing some research on the internet, most companies are charging over 150 EUR for an overnight stay at the White Desert. I guess you will have to figure out if you prefer to book straight in Cairo for a cheaper price, or some weeks ahead while paying a very high commission.

Private and more comfortable tours should be possible too. I’m sure there are local tour operators offering this kind of option to clients. However, this was a nice experience to be shared and if I was traveling again with only one or two more friends, I would still take the opportunity of traveling with a group and spend the night sharing stories next to the fire and singing under the stars.

What to bring on a tour to the White and Black Desert in Egypt?

• Hiking shoes
• Long hiking pants
• Warm clothes (Jacket, beanie, gloves)
• Sleeping bag (In case your tour operator does not provide it)
• Headlamp
• Toilet Paper
• Power bank (there is not a single spot with electricity during the whole tour)
• Water … lots of water
• Snacks (energy bars, fruits, chocolates)